Liulichang - - Temple of Heaven- - Panjiayuan Antiques Market

This walkabout odyssey could well be described as a Cultural Quest, such are the antique and other riches you will come across. Chances are that at the end of the day you will find yourself loaded down with bargains galore, always assuming you are adept at haggling. Just wrap up warm, including gloves, and carry nothing except a couple of roomy bags and a fair amount of money. You may not actually be seeking objets d'art for your home or as gifts, but it's a fair bet that you will be unable to resist temptation once you find yourself in the various Aladdin's Caves that trade largely on China's historic and cultural past.

Your first stop, best by taxi, is Liulichang, to the south of Hepingmen. The area is a viritual treasure trove of 18th and 19th century arts, and all their allied skills. The street name Liulichang originates from a royal factory built during the early Ming Dynasty to supply bricks, glazed tiles, and roof and window decorations for the imperial palace.

Although the factory was destroyed in the late Oing Dynasty, it had from the start acted as a magnet to many booksellers, typographers, paper traders, brush and inkstick/slab makers, and a small tribe of stonemasons, painters, book-binders and dealers in curios. Operating from about 200 shops, they inevitably attracted conventional artists, scholars and foreign visitors.

Today's Liulichang, also known as Cultural Street, has 54 shops largely concerned with selling souvenirs, handicrafts, cultural relics, ancient books, paper of all descriptions, calligraphic brushes and paintings. While now a far cry from the original street, its sheer diversity is still fascinating enough to merit a few hours on your feet as you explore the richly stocked shops that vie for your business.

If you end up footsore, you will find relief in a 10-minute taxi ride to the Temple of Heaven. You can take a break there and spend a pleasant hour just walking around the temple's own park, one of the most beautiful in Bejing. If your trip is on a Saturday or Sunday, you can take a 15-minute drive from the park to the city's most famous curio market, Panjiayuan.

This truly is a treasure house, so much so that many Beijingers go there every weekend in search of a true bargain hidden among the row upon row of stalls.

Even if you don't buy anything, you will expose yourself to many facets of Chinese history and culture as reflected by the items on view. This writer's best-ever buy was a late19th century solid leather hatbox, so strong that it now serves as a nifty household stool. The vendor asked a mere 80 yuan, later reduced to 50 when I appeared hesitant.